Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Dedication
Other Books by This Author
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
INTRODUCTION

1 THE MESSAGES OF JEWELRY: Why We Wear Ornaments

The Origins of Jewelry: Satisfying psychic and physical needs
The uses and values placed on jewelry
The jewel and the jeweler
Jewelry Forms in Relation to the Body: Design and construction conditioned by anatomy
Basic forms
Functional considerations in jewelry concepts
Common jewel-supporting systems

2 THE MEANS TO CREATION: Working Environment, Facilities, and Implements

The Workshop: Organizing the working areas
The basic work areas
General workshop requirements
Tools: Instruments of technique
The hand: Provider of guidance and power
Tool categories according to conceptual work principles

3 METAL, THE JEWEL’S RAW MATERIAL: Its Origin, Quality Control, and Variety

Metal: Characteristics and classifications 30 Metal characteristics in general
Metal groups
Gold Mining: Disgorging one of Earth’s treasures
Quality Control of Precious Metals: Insurance against fraud
Making an ingot of precious metal
Lowering or raising gold and silver quality
The hallmark: British quality control of precious metals
The touchstone: Approximating quality
Cupellation: A method of purifying and assaying precious metals
Titration for silver content
Recovery and refinement of precious metal
Precipitation and recovery of silver from spent acid solutions
Purchasing precious metals
Nonferrous Metals Used in Jewelry Making
Copper
Nickel
Tin
Zinc
Lead
Refractory Metals Used in Jewelry
Titanium
Tantalum and niobium (columbium): Their new use in jewelry
Ferrous Metals Used in Jewelry
Iron
Stainless steel

4 BASIC TECHNIQUES: Processing Sheet Metal Without Deformation

The Rolling Mill: Changing metal dimensions by tangential compression
Rolling sheet metal
Rolling wire
Some rolling techniques
Texture and pattern transfer by rolling
Rolling defects
The care of rolling mills
Measuring and Marking: Tools used to achieve dimensional accuracy
Measuring tools
Marking tools
Design Transfer to Metal: Materials and methods
Cutting Sheet Metal: Dividing metal from mass by shearing action
Shearing
Sawing: Severing or contour shaping metal by gradual groove removal
The jeweler’s saw frame
Sawing practice
Sawing problems and solutions
The hacksaw
Cold Bending Sheet Metal: Changing direction without springback
Methods of bending
Bend types
Piercing: Penetrating metal laterally or perpendicularly
Piercing by sawing: Enclosed negative shapes
Sawline piercing: Kerf graphics
Piercing by percussion penetration
Piercing by boring
Pierced work possibilities
Files and Filing: Removing metal by attrition
File manufacture
General classification of file types
File family groups
Swiss pattern, escapement, and needle file sectional shapes
The uses of files
Rotary files, burs, and abrasive points
Carbide burs
Diamond dental rotary cutting instruments: Shank dimensions
Milling: Rotary grinding metal for peripheral or face removal
Main types of milling actions
Diamond milling

5 SHEET METAL: Forming by Deformation Techniques

Sheet Metal Structural Distortion: Three-dimensional form through deformation
Doming: Stretch punching a hemisphere
Repoussage and Chasing: Free punching relief and intaglio forms
Repoussage and chasing work surfaces
Punches in general
Repouss? work and chasing punches
The chasing and repouss? work hammer
Metals used for repoussage
The repoussage and chasing process
DEMONSTRATION 1: Margaret Laws makes a silver vest of relief-modeled forms
Stamping: Impressing, blanking, or embossing by impact pressure
Stamping concepts
Punch and die stamping by hand methods
Stamping with power machines
Die stamping with a drop hammer
DEMONSTRATION 2: George Paul van Duinwyk makes a stamped pendant-necklace
Open forging: Free use of the drop hammer

6 WIRE: The Uses of Drawn or Extruded Flexible Filaments

Wire: Manipulating line into shape and dimension
The drawplate and drawtongs
Wire gauges: Wire measurement
Wire manufacture by hand
Industrial wire drawing
Profiled wire made with a drawswage
Cutting wire
Using wire without changing its sectional shape: Shaping and bending
Pliers
Spiral making
Twisted wire
Altering the shape or surface of wire
Filigree: A traditional wire technique of captured air
Filigree structural types
Filigree constructional concepts
Basic filigree wire uses
Filigree construction
Gold filigree: The Oaxaca, Mexico, method
DEMONSTRATION 3: Fausto Vargas Ramirez makes a filigree earring
Chains: Integrating interlinked, interlooped, flexible systems
The link: The chain unit
General chain types
Making plain link chain
Commercial chain
Single loop-in-loop chain making
Multiple loop-in-loop chain making
DEMONSTRATION 4: Chuck Evans shows the technique of interlocking deformed links
Chain couplings
Chain Mail: A unit system of intertextured construction
Chain mail construction
Mail and plates
Making chain mail links and plates
DEMONSTRATION 5: David LaPlantz makes a chain mail necklace
Wire and Strip in Interworked Processes: Using concepts employed with fibrous materials
Wire suitability to process
Metal qualities in relation to interworked processes
Classification of fibercraft techniques
Finger-worked processes
Hand-with-hand-tool-worked processes
Hand- or mechanism-worked weaving processes
Forging: Fabrication by percussion to move metal mass
Forging and heat treating tool steels
Tools used in the forging process
Basic forging operations
Methods of joining forged parts
Finishing a forged metal surface
Forging in action
DEMONSTRATION 6: Albert Paley makes a forged brooch

7 TUBING: The Uses of Fistular Forms

The Tube: Hollow, uniform, seamless, or seamed
Seamless tube manufacture by extrusion
The uses of tubing in jewelry making
Drawing seamed tubing
Seamed and seamless tube forming with core wire and mandrels
Reshaping the sectional form of seamless tubing
DEMONSTRATION 7: Richard Mawdsley draws round tubing to a hexagonal section
Tube shaping
Ornamental tube use in jewelry
DEMONSTRATION 8: Richard Mawdsley constructs a brooch mainly with tubing
Tapered Tubing: Transmuting flat sheet into coniforms
Tapered tube fabrication
DEMONSTRATION 9: Marcia Lewis makes a neckpiece using tapered tubing
Cores for shaping large-diameter tubes

8 SURFACE ORNAMENT WITHOUT HEAT: Metal Removal Techniques

Engraving: Forward-pressure linear metal removal
The uses of engraving on jewelry
Engraving tools and accessories
Preparing the workpiece for engraving
Holding and using a graver
Engraving practice
DEMONSTRATION 10: Ilse Immich engraves a silver pendant
Scoring: Backward-pressure linear metal removal
Decorative and functional purposes of scored lines
Tools for scoring
Decorative scoring of flat surfaces
Functional scoring
Chip Carving: Metal volume removal from mass with chisels
Historic chip carving: Kerbschnitt
Contemporary chip carving
Chip carving with chisels
DEMONSTRATION 11: Gene Pijanowski investigates chisel-cut textures
Metal Inlay: Excavation succeeded by insertion techniques
Japanese inlay work (hon zogan)
Metals used for inlay
Pitch: The traditional ground metal holding surface
The inlay tools
Chisels in general
The Japanese inlay process
DEMONSTRATION 12: Hiroko Sato Pijanowski inlays a pendant
Variations of inlay
The Acid Etching of Metal: Selective metal removal by chemical action
The uses of etching acids and processes
Materials used in the metal etching process
The etching process
DEMONSTRATION 13: Mary Ann Scherr relief etches a pendant
Electrochemical anodic etching
Stencil etching metal sheet using light-sensitized gelatin
Photomechanical one- or two-surface etch piercing
Halftone photoetching on metal: Graduated tone photoreproduction

9 SURFACE ORNAMENT WITH HEAT: Metal Fusion Techniques

Reticulation: Samorodok, or the self-born technique of fusion texturing
Metals used for reticulation
The theory of reticulation
Reticulating silver alloy
Reticulating sheet metal
DEMONSTRATION 14: Gene Pijanowski explores reticulation possibilities
Variations in reticulated effects
Reticulating preformed shapes
Fusing Metal: Using heat to plastically form metal
Shot making: Forming a metal ball by total fusion
Fusion forming a ball at a wire end
Fusing wire, sheet, and waste metal forms
Fused textures
Micro-welding
Hot modeling: Tool shaping fused metal
DEMONSTRATION 15: Rita Greer hot models an owl brooch
Hot pressure molding small forms
Fusion inlay
Granulation: Fusion weld bonding ornamental units
The fusion weld bond: Theory
Joining granule to base: Chemical and thermal action on copper and binder
Basic granule arrangement and growth pattern systems
Gold granulation: Practice
DEMONSTRATION 16: John Paul Miller illustrates one granulation method while making a pendant/brooch
Metal Lamination Fabrication: Bonding and patterning multi-metal composites
Damask steel: Pattern in cast crucible steel or fabricated laminates
Basic lamination fabrication systems: Structural concepts used for pattern development
Postlamination treatments
Mokum? Gane: A Japanese fusion-layered patterned laminate
The metals used for a nonferrous mokum? laminate
Creating a nonferrous mokum? gane: Horizontal lamination
Preparing a nonferrous mokum? laminate: Wet bonding by solder fusion
Preparing a nonferrous mokum? laminate: Diffusion weld bonding method
Creating a mokum? face pattern: Horizontal lamination
Mokum? parquetry: Mosaic lamination
Spiral mokum?: Vertical strip lamination
Mokum? wire laminates: Straight and twist lamination
Miscellaneous processing of finished mokum? laminates
Quality stamping of laminates
Niello: A fusion-inlaid contrast alloy
The niello composition
Preparing the parent metal for niello
Preparing the niello alloy: The first melt of the compound
Applying the niello powder
Niello fusion: The second melt of the compound
Finishing the nielloed surface
Repairing nielloed work: The third melt of the compound

10 FABRICATION: Building Fragments Into Units

Soldering: Joining fabricated parts by intermediary metal alloy fusion
Solders for precious metals and their alloys
Basic types of joints
Soldering jigs
Refractory materials used for jigs and soldering surfaces
Fluxes used for silver or hard soldering
Presoldering operations: General recommendations
Burning fuels: The energy source of heat
The soldering operation
The three stages of a soldering cycle
Postsoldering operations
Soft soldering
Screws, Bolts and Nuts, and Screw Joints: Mechanical cold fabrication by torsion-pressure holding systems
Screws
Bolts
Nuts
Construction
Making a screw or bolt
Rivets and Riveting: A cold percussion closed pressure joining system
Rivet conditions used in jewelry
Rivet head shapes
Rivet setting
DEMONSTRATION 17: Nilda C. Fernandez Getty utilizes rivets on a pendant
The Lathe and Machined Jewelry: Rotational fabrication systems
The primitive manually powered lathe
Basic contemporary lathe categories
Lathe types
Lubrication of the lathe
Workpiece materials
Manual tooling and manual lathe tools
Mechanical tooling and mechanical lathe tools
Safety precautions
Primary lathe operations: External cuts or feeds
Secondary lathe operations
Machining jewelry
DEMONSTRATION 18: Gary S. Griffin shows the use of fixed tool lathe techniques
Plastics in Jewelry: Fabrication using synthetic solids and liquids
Basic plastic types: Thermoplastics and thermosetting plastics
Manufacture of plastics
Plastics in solid form used in jewelry
DEMONSTRATION 19: David Keens fabricates a brooch using plastics shaped by various methods
Laminating sheet plastics
Plastics in liquid resin form
Casting polyester resin
DEMONSTRATION 20: Rodolfo R. Azaro uses a silicone rubber mold

11 CASTING: Methods of Giving Form to Molten Metal

Gravity Pour Casting: Exploiting Earth’s centripetal force
The development of casting technology
Gravity pouring metal
Cuttlebone casting: Creating the mold cavity by pressure
Direct carving of a cuttlebone mold cavity
DEMONSTRATION 21: Alice Shannon cuttlebone casts a pendant
Lost Wax Casting: Replacing a mold-voided temporary model with metal
Lost wax investment casting
Wax composition for investment casting
Types of wax
Forms of wax
Non-wax model materials
Wax-manipulating tools and materials
Preparing the wax model
Wax-in-wax inlay
DEMONSTRATION 22: Thomas Gentille forms a rigid bracelet exploiting wax characteristics
Preparing a wax model for a stone setting
Centrifugal Casting: Flinging molten metal from a rotating center outward into a single-use investment plaster mold
Spruing the wax model
Determining the amount of metal needed for a casting
Mounting the model on the pouring gate former
Painting the model with a wetting agent
The investment plaster composition
The burnout: Losing or eliminating the wax
The centrifugal casting hand sling
The centrifugal machine
Preparing the casting metal
Casting metal on the centrifuge
The shakeout: Freeing the casting from the investment
Cleaning the casting: Fettling
Finishing the casting
Porosity: A major casting fault and its causes
Centrifugal casting: Practice
DEMONSTRATION 23: Lynda Watson-Abbott uses an intaglio clay mold to form a wax relief model for casting
Casting metal on metal: Ganga-Jumna
Pressure casting
Pressure and vacuum casting
Vacuum assist casting
Rubber Mold Wax Injection: Duplicating a master model with a reusable flexible mold
Making the master model
Making a two-part mold with a separator
Making a one-piece rubber mold without a separator
Injection waxes
The wax injector machine
Making a wax-injected replica
Cold rubber mold making
Using transparent plastic mold making compounds
Making a rubber mold for use in wax injection
DEMONSTRATION 24: Bj?rn Weckstr?m designed production brooch

12 NATURAL MATERIALS IN JEWELRY: Using Nature’s Valued Nonmetals

Organic Materials Used in Jewelry: Employing products of formerly living organisms
Ivory
Bone
Teeth
Tortoiseshell and horn
Claws
Shell cameos
Coral
Amber
Mother of pearl: Nacre
Pearls
Drilling and mounting pearls
DEMONSTRATION 25: Methods used by K. Mikimoto & Co. Ltd., Tokyo, Japan
Feathers in jewelry

13 STONES AND THEIR SETTING: Inorganic Minerals Employed in Jewelry

Stones: Selected fragments of terrestrial bounty
Precious, semiprecious, and synthetic stones
The lapidary art: Stone shaping and polishing
Tumbling: Mechanical shaping and polishing stones
Gemstone carving and engraving: The glyptic art
Stone mosaics in jewelry
Cabochon-cut stones
Bezel setting a cabochon stone
Faceted stones
Composite stones
Gemstone substitutes
Setting a faceted stone

14 METAL FINISHING: Achieving Desired Surface Appearance

Metal Finishing Techniques: Manual and mechanical
Types of soil on metals
Cleaning solution finishing techniques
Hand and mechanical finishing techniques
Hand polishing and buffing
Mechanical finishing of metal surfaces
Abrasives
Polishing and buffing compositions
Types of finish on metals
Polishing and buffing wheels in action
Flexible shaft equipment and accessories
Respirators: Protection against particle and gas inhalation

15 METALLIC COATING TECHNIQUES: Changing the Base Metal’s Surface Appearance

Cold Gilding with Metal Leaf: Mechanical application of precious metals
Leaf metal
Gold leaf production
DEMONSTRATION 26: Traditional techniques as modified today
Mechanical surface gilding
Mercury Amalgam Gilding: Depositing precious metal by heat
Mercury
Amalgams
Preparing a gold-mercury amalgam for gilding
DEMONSTRATION 27: Walter Soellner devises a closed venting system
Shakudo: A favored Japanese copper alloy
Kinkeshi: A Japanese amalgam gilding method
DEMONSTRATION 28: Mitsuko Kambe Soellner parcel gilds a shakudo pendant
Gilding puddle-bonded solder on steel
DEMONSTRATION 29: Walter Soellner parcel gilds a steel belt buckle
Techniques in the use of precious metal amalgams

16 METALLIC BUILDUP: Electrolytic Molecular Creation of Surface and Form

Electroplating: Depositing metals through electrolytic mediums
Reasons for electroplating
Principal properties of plated coatings
Factors influencing electroplated results
Immersion or “dip” plating
Brush plating
Electroplating and electroforming equipment and conditions
A typical cyanide gold plating process cycle
Plating formulas
Electroforming: Synthesizing form and texture by electrochemistry
Creating the mandrel: Preliminary work prior to electroforming
Preparing mandrels for electroforming
The electroforming process
Acrylic autoclave casting and electroforming a brooch
DEMONSTRATION 30: Stanley Lechtzin creatively uses two industrial processes
Photoelectroforming: Using light to impart an image to metal and to create form
The photoelectroforming process sequence
Electroplating using the photoresist stencil
Photoelectroforming: Stripped or adhesive electroforms

17 COLORING METALS: Achieving Patinas Through Heat, Chemicals, and Electrolysis

Metal Coloring: Broadening the basic color range of metals
Coloring processes
Postcoloring treatments
Anodizing Metals: Electrochemical conversion coating and dye coloring
Preanodizing treatment and metal surface preparation
Anodizing aluminum: Preparing the oxide coating
Dye coloring anodized aluminum objects
Titanium Coloring: Heat and anodic oxidizing methods
Titanium surface preparation before coloring
Titanium direct heat treatment coloring
Titanium overall anodizing: Coloring by electrochemical immersion
Titanium localized anodizing: Selective area coloring
Maintenance and protective coatings on titanium oxide films

18 STANDARD WEIGHTS, MEASURES, AND TABLES

Abbreviations Used in Weights, Measures, and Other Areas
Linear Measurements
Length
Thickness
Area or surface
Measures of Weight and Mass
Weight Measurements
Conversions of weight and mass
Capacity: Liquids
Capacity measurements
Conversions of liquid measures of capacity
Temperature
Time and Speed
Time measurements
Speed measurements

19 GLOSSARIES

Visual Glossary: Geometric and morphic shapes, forms, and concepts
Glossary: Forms of Jewelry
Glossary: Jewelry Findings
Soldering jewelry findings
The hinge
The spring
BIBLIOGRAPHIES
Historic Jewelry
Jewelry Technology
Lapidary; Mineralogy; and Gemology
Exhibition Catalogs and Handbooks on Jewelry
Periodicals: Jewelry
Periodicals: Lapidary
SOURCES OF TOOLS, SUPPLIES, AND SERVICES
United States of America
United Kingdom